Monday, 11 June 2012

GAUDI NOT GAUDY


We have become creatures of the underground! We managed to change trains and lines in a maze of tunnels and emerge at Sagrada Familla, Gaudi’s cathedral masterpiece. It is still a WIP, but that does not detract from it at all. We have seen many beautiful and awe inspiring Cathedrals, Churches, Basilica’s, but nothing could quite prepare you for what your eyes and senses have to take in when you enter here. 


It is impossible to describe, and no pictures could show, the crazy but somehow logical beauty of it all. It is magnificent, original, beautiful, well, I can’t think of any other words. Gaudi must have had an amazing mind, is all I can think. Somehow, it all made sense and told a wonderful story.


 Mathew, Mark, Luke and John were represented in a very 
stylistic way - here's two of them!
Stained glass like you've never seen it!
A riot of sun drenched colour

Then on to the Park Guell another Gaudi creation. There’s a theme going here with the higgly piggly arches and crazy ceramic decorations.




Lunch and an even more confusing situation watching the French Open final with German commentary here in Spain – go figure!

Some market shopping for dinner and more exploring in the Gothic precinct nearby shortly.

MAGICAL MANUEL


The concert started at 9.00pm, so we traipsed off to do a little more exploring in the nearby historic part of town on our way. Our timing was perfect to catch a special ‘Celebration of the Eucharist’ outside the Santa Esglesia Cathedral. A big occasion for the faithful and a spectacular scene.



Next the big decision – where to eat? We found a great restaurant near the Basilica and ordered a range of Tapas including Razor clams (an acquired taste) and an amazing creation of Cod bacalau. One of the nicer meals we’ve had for a while.

 Razor clams front and centre

What a night! We were enthralled by a virtuoso performance by Manuel Gonzales, alone in a side chapel of the Basilica. Intimate and inspiring, he filled the space with pure musical magic. A standing ovation and an encore of musical mayhem as he transported us from classical to creative and back seamlessly combining both. We felt compelled to buy the predictable CD and he was there to sign it and join us for a photograph. (Excuse the quality of the photo – an enthusiastic amateur helped out!)


 Front row seats helped

 Hold the phone!



Sunday, 10 June 2012

DISCOVERING BARCELONA 1



We went to bed with the forecast of a wet day today but woke this morning to another beautifully sunny day in a truly beautiful city. We started with what is apparently a Spanish traditional breakfast “Chocolate con churros” , hot chocolate in cups into which you “dunk” the pastry of your choice. A little heavy and sweet to start the day for us but it certainly fixed our chocolate deprivation!

 Chocolate "con churros" for brekky!

Then off to test our capacity to conquer the local transport system – the underground in particular. It was so easy to understand the ticket and coloured line system we were on and off the right train in no time at all – very impressive. And so clean… no graffiti anywhere, and almost no rubbish in the streets… with the exception of cigarette butts.

What a choice? We laughed at the situations this could apply to!
Despite this most took the escalator!

Our “super fast” train bookings needed some adjustment for the rest of the trip. Nothing half an hour at the ticket counter couldn’t fix! We’re training it from here around the bits of Spain that we want to see, ending up when we meet with the others in San Sebastion.

The main station is near the Spanish square (Placa) an area that contains the old Bull fighting arena (now a shopping centre, mercifully free of any Westfield ownership!)

All "Bull" to us!

Museum of Art

We had planned a meal in tonight with purchases from the nearby markets – a scene to rival the best around the world – everything you can imagine, but being Sunday it was closed, so tomorrow perhaps?

Market selections

A special treat tonight though. As we passed by the historic 14th century Gothic Basilica " Santa Maria de Pi" yesterday we noticed a poster promoting a Spanish guitar concert there tonight by world renowned Spanish guitarist Manuel Gonzales. We were fortunate enough to get some tickets and are looking forward to it very much in the ancient space, in particular, the spectacular stained glass windows as a colourful backdrop to the performance.

Concert tickets

Heavenly sounds tonight?

Saturday, 9 June 2012

BARCELONA BECKONS


We have spent the day travelling! Anne produced a tasty omlette from our small and inadequate kitchen with great skill before we left. An easy paced program of a coach from Sorrento to Napoli airport, a pleasant one and a half hour flight to Barcelona and coach into the town center. Barcelona was buzzing, a Saturday soiree had a large number of people out and about. Our apartment was a ten-minute walk away and revealed a very pleasant situation in an ideal spot on the Las Rambla, right in the middle of everything. We took a brief exploratory walk through the nearby markets and historic Cathedral area. A beer and wine was necessary to quench our thirst from a long day and take in the local vibes.
Tapas bars are everywhere and beckon for our first Spanish meal.

A welcome beer and wine

Chillis galore

Jamon





SCRUMPTIOUS SORRENTO



We had some very interesting food in Sorrento and surrounds. A small fishing village near the main town, down many stairs and in a small bay a few restaurants beckoned. It was not one of our best meals but the sunset and view made up for what the food lacked and ended a great day.

Fishing village dinner

Days end

We treated ourselves to two meals in, one a gourmet sausage and buffalo mozzarella salad the other a pasta and tasty tomato sauce. Both meals were accompanied by an entree of mixed local olives and white anchovies. YUMMMMY.

Dinner in

On the last night we went to a restaurant that specialized in Buffalo, it was terrific. A mixed starter plate had mozzarella cheese, and two versions of Buffalo sausage, along with some marinated vegetables. We followed this with a baked, stuffed Buffalo steak and Squid and tomato sauce. Generous helpings and a struggle home afterwards… couldn’t even fit in either a Limoncello or Gelato!

Starter

Baked Buffalo

Please excuse the colour!

Friday, 8 June 2012

AMORE AMALFI

This blog will cover our day in Herculaneum and Capri, more precisely Anacapri.


Anne had two inspirational destinations on this trip - Dubrovnik (because of the painting) and Anacapri (because of the book written by Axel Munthe that she read over 40 years ago!) where we visited his home and the subject of his book.


First things first! Having survived the train trip here we ventured on it again back 31 stations towards Napoli to see the ruins of Herculaneum. They are supposedly more intact than Pompeii and were really quite amazing. The city was by the sea and further from the eruption of Vesuvius. 


Herculaneum train station

Herculaneum excavation

Ancient street

"Restorated" Mosaic

We returned to Sorrento to have a quick lunch and then catch a ferry to Capri. We gave the blue grotto a miss but set off in search of Axel Munthe's home. Up the funicular train from the harbour and a hair-raising bus trip along narrow winding streets that ascended the mountain (100 times more scary than the Amalfi coast). 

Funicular railway

A short walk and we were there. Anne was beside herself with emotion as we strolled through the house and garden. Doone gave her the book "The Story of San Michael", and ever since reading how he found the site and built the house and garden it has been a hope and dream that one day she would see it for herself. And today, that dream came true and she was not at all disappointed, quite the contrary, it was more spectacular than you could imagine. How lucky we were today, to have such a clear day that we could see all the surrounding islands, and back to Napoli.


Anne in the kitchen, as usual!

The Sphinx (BC) and Napoli beyond

A cup of tea and a slice of famous Capri lemon cake

Capri harbour

Off to Spain tomorrow. Bus from here to Napoli and a short flight to Barcelona.