A GERMAN GEM

Further to exploring the Alsace region, this morning we headed for Strasbourg at it’s Northern tip. Through some of the smaller villages along the “Route de Vin” we were in Strasbourg in short time. Still in France, just, it reminded us of Paris, wide boulevards, a meandering river through the centre and beautiful buildings throughout.

We headed for the Cathedral, the tallest spire in Europe, until the 19^th century, showing us the way. It was an amazing Cathedral, one of the most beautiful we have seen with fabulous stained glass windows throughout. An amazing astronomical clock was an unusual feature.

Cathedral square

Astronomical clock

One of the oldest building in town.

We then headed out of town, picnic in hand, over the Rhine and had lunch by the river in Germany! (We thought of you Kristin! Wished you could have interpreted the road signs for us!)

Not a great shot, but it is the mighty Rhine

Back in Dambach, we went on a “Cellar Tour” with a local grower/winemaker – a young fellow, who is making fantastic organic wines – needless to say, we have a few to sample later! He spoke good English and we had the opportunity to compare growing and wine making traditions. He was the 15^th generation of Becks who had made wine in the village.

Winemaker Florian Beck

He recommended a small restaurant two villages away. Mainly locals it was a great meal of traditional Alsatian cooking.

Lamb shank and Alsatian casserole

MARCHE (MARKETS) MANIA

It seems we have struck the Alsace at Market time. There’s one on in every village and town nearby on different days. Last night we had a ‘partisan market’ in Dambach. Not very large but interesting never the less. Plenty of meats, bread and cheese of every type, including a local favourite, Munster. There were wine tastings too. We purchased a pack of Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer from the local vigneron, as well as a large slice of yummy myrtle pie.

There was a pizza dinner and ‘oompah’ music provided by the local band. We skipped the pizza and settled for a local restaurant. A brief stop for a glass of local wine along the way at a small and very friendly bar. (In fact we can’t quite believe the friendliness from the Froggies in these parts, there’s always a ‘bon jour’, ‘bon soir’ or ‘aurevoir’ from passers by.)

Our wine, but my self photography needs some better aim!

Today we headed for the next quick “marche’ in Selestat. A much larger town about 15mins away. A much bigger market too – a lot of fashion (if you can call it that!) but also a stack of food. We are starved of fresh greens with meals in most restaurants, so it was green envy! Some nice fresh fruit was purchased – bananas and apricots, as well as some bread, tomato and some tasty terrine for a picnic lunch.

Markets with St George Cathedral in background

A few smaller towns on the ‘Vin route’ and we turned for home at Riguewihr, a stunningly beautiful fortified town built in the 13^th century. It is listed as one of the “Most beautiful Villages in France” and was consequently packed with tourists – a little unusual in these parts.

Riguewihr, just stunningly beautiful

Another diversion along the way was the Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg. It was built at the top of a 750 metre peak, Stophanberch mountain, looking down the ‘Plaine d’Alsace’ in the 12^th century. It had been conquered but abandoned by the Swiss for several centuries but was restored by the German Emperor “Kaiser’ William II as a Middle Age museum from 1900 to 1908. This part of (now) France has changed hands between Germany and France a number of times and although William’s restoration was immense and personal it, (and the Alsace), has since returned to French control after the Treaty of Versailles (1919).

Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg

William II's dining room roof decoration, hardly subtle!

View of the valley from the chateau.

DIVINE DAMBACH-LA-VILLE

We really feel we’re in an amazing Tyrolean village! The buildings within the walls of this medieval town are amazing. They represent a number of different historical periods, half-timbered houses of the Middle Ages, stone edifices of the Renaissance (Peasant War) and 17^th century homes rebuilt after the Thirty Years War as well as numerous large cellars representing the flourishing wine trade of the 18^th century.

The narrow building on the right reveals the shortage 

of space within the city at the time.

Old and beautiful

Dambach was a consolidation of smaller villages in the area and became a fortified Episcopal city in the 14^th century by the Bishop of Strasbourg to help protect the inhabitants. 

The city gates were built in 1323.

We had a lovely meal last night, despite some language difficulties we managed to order two great dishes, one a slow cooked pork shin, the other a loaf of mixed meats – sounds funny but tasted great. But the best part of all was the local Grand Cru Riesling – quite a treat!

A great local Grand Cru Riesling

This morning we had a two hour walk up quite a steep mountain behind the village to the ruins of Bernstein Castle, a 12^th century granite palace with rare Romanesque windows. It was conquered in 1277 by the Bishop of Strasbourg who already occupied the city.

The Saint Sebastian Chapel, on the way, is the former parish church of an abandoned village just above Dambach. The altar is quite unusual and was carved in 1690 from linden and pear woods.

The city is surrounded by over 450ha of vineyards, 45 of which are ‘Grand Cru Frankstein’ and there are a number of cellars around town still operating today as they have done for centuries.

Ripening Riesling

Who said it doesn’t get cold in winter!

RAINY REIMS

Well the great weather could not last, northern France has had thunderstorms for a few days but we managed to avoid most of it and even the few storms that we endured in Reims didn’t interfere with our time there. A couple of convenient shops and the storms passed.

Our last night there and I managed to stay up ‘till 11.00pm to watch a light and sound show on the Cathedral façade. There were a few hundred people there and the show was great. A few shots follow that tell the story. (Anne watched from our bedroom window)

Regular floodlights

Digital lights

Enlarge this it's great

Up this morning to a very sleepy Sunday, no sign of human habitation – even by 10.00am! We followed the Champagne trail through to Epernay but there was little open. The countryside looked great and the little villages, deserted but quaint along the way.

A change of scenery, more hills and the odd mountain to negotiate with ‘Helene’s’ help and we arrived in the Alsace, to our base here in Dambach-la-Ville, a medieval, walled village with a nest of storks welcoming us atop one of the three town ‘Portes’.

Any Porte in a storm

Our hotel, great, but right next to the church,

could be a noisy night! Better have a Riesling or two!

Tomorrow we start exploring the regions towns and wines, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Tokay and Muscat.