TRSTENIK/MLJET

A slight recap of yesterday – we sailed to Trstenik, which is a very small community on the mainland of Croatia, a lovely little bay famous for the local wines and the winery of Grgic – we went there for a “tour” and a “taste” – the wines were not exactly to our taste, but it was a very pleasant afternoon.

Trstenik

Followed by the boats “captains” dinner which was great fun.

A generous meal with slightly alcohol fuelled dancing on the after deck. The captain’s hat was passed around with the wearer having to perform a solo “dance”. Quite a night and a resultant slow start this morning.

Today we sailed to Mljet – it is almost indescribably beautiful. Moored, and went for a very cool swim. Then we sat in a little café by the harbour waterfront – capucchino in hand, free wi-fi a bonus! Caught up with mail and Facebook.  A great lazy day ahead as we summon the energy to walk to an inland lake.

Mljet and our "Sailboat"

"Sailing" our token effort!

After lunch aboard we walked over the hill to the salt lakes and an old monastery beyond, which I hope the photo’s will do justice.

Lake scene

Monastry on the lake

Tonight, we are having dinner ashore with some friends from the UK we’ve made on the boat – good times! Don’t know when we’ll be able to post again….

HAPPY IN HVAR

We left Kocula this morning after breakfast and cruised through beautiful, tranquil waters, anchoring off a lovely island for a swim – it was freezing! But we were all persuaded into the water.

After a fabulous lunch on board, we set off again, passing the most amazing hillside vineyards on the way – talk about extreme viticulture!

Arrived in Hvar around 4 this afternoon and walked up to the old Spanish Fort.

Spectacular views of the bay from the fort at the top.

Hvar is supposed to be a “beautiful people” spot… but we haven’t seen any celebrities yet.

Very lazy day, now sitting on the back of the boat with a wine – we’re rafted up with 13 other boats! You can see some of them in this picture , we’re in the middle. More have arrived since we took this picture.

 We’ll go  ashore for dinner later and hopefully find a wifi place to upload this.

Mission accomplished!

CRUISING CROATIA

We sometimes surprise ourselves with technology! Here we are sitting in a bar on Korcula, an island just off the Croatian mainland midway between Split and Dubrovnik. We set off this morning on our “Yacht” – more cruiser than yacht, but comfortable none the less. Roomy cabin and it seems a motley, but fun, “crew”! Bodies from all parts of the world, 28 in total.

Our boat is the nearest

A beautiful day, sunny, azure seas as we cruised to Korkula, the birthplace of Marco Polo (so the Croatians claim). An ancient walled city that is blessedly free of HUGE cruiseship masses. 

Islands on the way

A small purchase for Mum as we cruised the shops – we found an artisan jewellery worker in her shop which seemed to add the experience.

The jeweller and the necklace

Cathederal and Marco Polo's tower

We’re here for the night and have found a restaurant that was recommended by the jeweller, we feel a seafood meal coming on being so close to the sea!!

TAPAS CROATION STYLE

We have had some quite memorable meals so far, but few that were as excellent as last nights. We had heard of this little restaurant and it rated well on Trip Adviser, so off we went. A small dining area with an open kitchen and a young and enthusiastic chef, Elena. She was calm and serene throughout the service. The restaurant was full and the dishes came out with great aplomb.

Elena (with hair up) at work

We had six dishes, baked octopus hood with a delicious mushroom based stuffing, monk fish wrapped in the local fine smoked ham, lamb kebabs with a challenging honey and lavender sauce that was just amazing. Fillet of beef sliced on top of a salad with finely sliced local cheese, greens and tomatoes. Two mousses completed the degustation, one eggplant the other a humus. It was all delicious! 

Our dishes

More waiting to go out

Oh, and the wine waiter was terrific too - as was the wine, 

a local Sauvignon

Through the meal we were approached by a diner from the other side of the restaurant "Are you Roger?" was the question! I immediatly recognised Fred Fink, an old advertising colleage and a near neighbour in Waverton when we were there. His wife Rosie was with him and we exchanged pleasantries and the shared belief we were having a truly great dining experience.

Fred, a surprise diner!

CAVTAT AND BACK

Having pretty much done Dubrovnik over the last two days (it's about the size of 2 Westfield shopping centres back to back) we journeyed a short distance to a neighbour town, Cavtat. A local ferry ride - 45 mins into what appeared to be a thunderstorm but we only experienced light rain and a stunning, clearing, day to follow. The bluest skies you can imagine and mid 20's temp.

Leaving Dubrovnik

Sleepy Cavtat bay

Our main meal for the day enjoyed in Cavtat

A light meal at home tonight. Amy, we'll try and watch Eurovision.

WARNING

We are going to see what we can do about blogging while on the yacht. Not sure we'll be able to so if we're off the air for 8 days, the break might suit you!

DREAMY DUBROVNIK

We can't quite fathom the weather here. We wake to misty/hazy views and then as the day gets older it clears to fine and sunny and just keeps getting warmer. Shouldn't complain, we've had great weather so far and need it to continue for our yacht cruise starting Sunday. So not sure how we can blog and email from the boat!


Had a great day here. Can't believe we have negotiated over 400 steps both up and down, three times through the day with another set for dinner tonight. Just hope it helps keep our figures in shape after all the food!


Here are some snaps from the day:

A small but interesting market in the town centre, 

bought some terrific dried figs.

A cable car ride to the heavens to view the scene below.

And a cool ale to celebrate the occasion

This is a painting that Anne's grandfather purchased here in the early 1900's when he visited on a tramp steamer, it was the inspiration for our visit here.

Below is the closest facsimile I could get of the scene today. I think the artist might have taken some liberties with the colours and proportions!

What do you think?

Another full day here tomorrow before setting off on Sunday! An interesting dinner booked tonight at a highly recommended "Tapas" style Croation restaurant.

GOOD BYE GREECE

I have found Athens a revelation – not sure what I had in my mind, but the reality is so much better. I feel incredibly at home here and although there is a bit of graffiti around, no sign of demonstrations of any kind – no sign really that Greece is in such dire straights…. Maybe a few boarded up shops, but not too many. Talking to the local people, we get the impression they feel the media is “beating up” the problem, but also they (generally) feel that to go back to the drachma may be the best option. Perhaps we have been talking to people who are in some way in the tourist business, which of course will benefit enormously if they get rid of the euro.

We have been incredibly lucky with where our hotel is, we can see the Parthenon from the roof and all the ancient sites are well within walking distance. 

On our walk this morning:

CHANGING OF THE GUARD

TEMPLE OF ZEUS WITH PARTHENON IN BACKGROUND

We are next to the Plaka precinct, which is a pedestrian area, with lots of narrow streets full of restaurants and souvenir shops, doesn’t sound as charming at it really is. I had “lamb cooked in clay” for dinner last night… it was better than any I have ever eaten. 

PLAKA LAST NIGHT

LAMB COOKED IN CLAY POT

We have both really enjoyed our time here, but we fly out tonight for Dubrovnik, which I have such very high expectations of!

AG.