LE TOUR D’JOUR

A sign of things to come

For years we have watched Le Tour on TV, late at night and salivating over Gabriel Gate’s French cooking and wines and the stunning scenery. In 2012 we’re here! Can’t quite believe we are, but sometimes dreams do come true.

Up early this morning, a brief stop to get a coffee and some sustenance for the day. A baguette and a stunning strawberry tart for morning tea. Our recce the day before was a Godsend, we were able to find a spot we had seen and headed for it with “Helene’s” help. At the end of a longish straight slightly uphill and on a bend where the riders would have to bunch and ride closer together.

"Our" corner and the Chateau gates

It was a long morning, we arrived at 8.00am and the first of the ‘caravan’ came through at 1.30pm! A nice local group around us, no parlez the Anglaise here.

Here comes the 'caravan', a prelude to the big show!

You could sense the excitement increasing as the riders came into view. Yelling, flags waving, flashing lights of the police bikes as the leading riders approached – three of them with their back-up support … then nothing for 20 minutes, then again the excitement started as the peloton approached up the hill. They were packed tightly as they swept through the corner fortunately avoiding each other and the supporting throng.

The leading bunch

It was quick, hardly a chance to take it all in and they were gone.

Everyone packed up and wandered off to their homes nearby. The owner of the Chateau and his wife went back to their crumbling relic behind where we were watching.

We thought it was all over, got back into the car and in the safe and trusty hands of ‘Helene’, she took us a different way home . Driving along and we suddenly sighted more parked cars and hundreds of spectators. What a bonus, a second surprise opportunity to see ‘Le Tour’. We had by-passed a town where 'Le Tour' went, and we had over-taken them! We were in the middle of nowhere but a popular spot none the less. 

A short wait and the whole circus went by us again. I know that I’m sitting beside one very happy camper as I write this blog.

Despite the thrill of it all, it’s difficult to beat the SBS coverage of the whole race. Helicopter shots, fabulous commentary, Gabriel’s cooking and the scenery throughout the country.

Go Cadel.   

HELLO HONFLEUR

A long day driving north today. Goodbye to the vineyards and Chateaux of Bordeaux and an interesting drive through the A roads of France. Green fields of summer crops and the golden colour of ripening winter-feed interspersed by tidy vineyards, especially around Cognac. Too early for Cognac but a coffee was appreciated.

We arrived in Honfleur late and went into town to have dinner. What a beautiful sight awaited us. A stunning little coastal town with a small harbour surrounded by old buildings now cafes for the large tourist flock.

More exploring this morning – today is dull and cool. We seem to have gone from 30+ down to about 20 very quickly! A good day to further explore beautiful Honfleur and go a bit further. 

France or England?

Saint Catherine's - built in timber by 

local shipbuilders, 15th century

The wooden bell tower

We decided to go up the coast to Dieppe and happened to find that this is the exact road ‘Le Tour’ is coming on tomorrow! So we have picked a spot to watch, not sure of how the traffic may be, but we’ll try!

Some very pretty scenery, the obligatory Chateaux and, being so close to England, and under English rule for a time, some charming country cottages.

Chateau Janville

Les Pettite Halles

Lunch sur la Plage

White cliffs of ??

The biggest bridge of its type in Europe!

It cost 5 euros to use so we asked 'Helene'

to find a way home without tolls ...

Clever little 'Helene' found a ferry!!

BOUNTIFUL BORDEAUX

What a fantastic place. The most amazing wine regions spread around a flat, but rich, countryside dotted with Chateaux and small towns each with their own dramatic church spires standing head and shoulders above the old town buildings.

We did the Medoc yesterday; today we headed for Saint–Emilion passing through Fronsac and Pomerol on the way. ‘Helene’ was fantastic as she guided us through a maze of winding country lanes walled by ancient dry stonewalls hardly wide enough for a horse and cart!

Saint-Emilion is an elevated medieval village that commands views across the regions famous vineyards, such as Petrus. We stopped for a coffee and a walk around the narrow, cobbled streets. To our surprise Saint-Emilion is also famous for its Macarons – we were tempted but resisted!

 District views from the tower

Towers, new and old!

Mmmmmm Macarons!

Fancy an '82 Petrus at 4,700 euros???

Moving on we reached Cadillac for lunch. Again, old and interesting. A very large Chateau there and we got the feeling that it was heading in the same direction as its car namesake – a little old fashioned and tired.

 Chateau Cadillac - and not one in sight!

Decisions, decisions - I'll have the ...

We had passed briefly through Sauterne and Barsac on the way to Bordeaux. So to complete our regional route we programmed ‘Helene’ for a return visit. Again she directed us through the twisting country lanes to village after interesting village. We were keen to find the home of Chateau d’Yquem, supposedly the world’s most famous Sauterne. Sauterne, being made largely from Semillon grapes, this was interesting for us.

Dime a dozen in these parts!

Back to our humble abode for dinner and the footy final, bed and an early start tomorrow for a rather long drive to Honfleur and hopefully a view of ‘Le Tour’!

MEDOC MAGIC

What a mistake we made by saying we were in a way out spot! After breakfast this morning (included!), our host Serge gave us a map and off we went and we found we were actually right at the “door” of the Medoc area!

The signs were right

He had booked a tour of the Chateau Beychevelle. It was built in 1757 and is known as the Versailles du Medoc. Interestingly it has as its emblem a Griffin, the guardian of Dionysos’ wine cellar in Greek mythology. Spookily it is also our (Goldfinch) family crest! Did we buy any? Not at 100 euros a bottle!

The Chateau

Griffin emblem

We have had the most fantastic day. Chateaux everywhere, many we have heard of and it is even more than we hoped for. So much to see that we’re not sure if we’ll get back into Bordeaux itself! Here are some of the most beautiful photos.

Chateau Longueville!

Chateau ?