SEGOVIA - STORKS AND WALKS

A very short train trip to Segovia and we arrived in another ancient, narrow, cobble streeted town. Our hotel bang in the middle of the Mayor Square, pole position for everything.

Neustra Senora de la Asuncion San Frutos Cathedral

(view from our hotel)

The most amazing 15th century Gothic Cathedral is right in our front garden, and the square leads to the Alcazar, a short stroll away.

The Alcazar

Alcazar from below

The room of Monarchs

Lifelike representations on the frieze above 

the painting of the "Seizure of Cadiz"

Built originally in the 11^th century over Roman ruins the Alcazar (Palace) was completed in the 15th century and was the home of the Castilian Bourbon Monarchs for several centuries until the seat of Government moved to Madrid. Segovia is an ancient Monastic town with too many monasteries to count.

We discovered also yesterday that Segovia is on one of the old Pilgrim Camino paths to Santiago de Compostela with shell signs showing the way.

The Camino gateway

The shell that marks the pilgrim pathway

At the Alcazar we observed three lofty Stork nests in the trees nearby, some with fledglings in – an interesting sight for us but they can be pests in other areas building their rather large nests in chimneys etc.

High and mighty

An interesting dinner last night at a ‘local’ restaurant. We were the only "strangers" there. They didn't speak much English, but we managed to order somehow. We were determined to try some of the local delicacies and wines. A tasty tomato salad – dressing to die for, a mushroom and whitebait omelet – luscious but a little salty for our taste, “judiones de La Granja”, soft beans in a rich tomato sauce, and a chorizo grill to finish.

Whitebait and mushroom omelet

Bean and tomato dish

We left the Roman Aqueduct to last. It dominates the entrance to the old city and was constructed in the late 1^st century BC. It is enormous and is considered a masterpiece of Roman hydraulic engineering being of dry stone construction with no cement or mortar used.

Roman aqueduct

Segovia is known for its slow cooked suckling pig. We have sussed out a good spot to savour it tonight. And what a dinner it was! Classy service and matching food. 

An amuse bouche of marinated white anchovies, 
stuffed pepper and bacalao.

Half (!) a salad of white and grilled green asparagus 

with a pistachio vinaigrette

Suckling pig and lamb - a meal fit for a Monarch!

ADIOS MADRID

It has taken us a little while to come to grips with Madrid. There seems to be lack of ruins and narrow, cobbled streets. Wide tree lined boulevards criss cross the city carrying a bustle of traffic and people, it's huge and somehow, doesn't seem to have a "centre" as such. Perhaps we are used to cities either on a harbour, by the sea, or by a river... these things tend to focus you and you can navigate by them. Having said that, it is also very busy and very beautiful!

Art deco hat!

In a slightly confused state (something to do with last nights festivities, no doubt!) we ventured to the Naval museum today. Supposedly one of the best in the world and certainly worth a visit. The Spanish were undoubtedly masters of the seas and the exhibits were excellent. 

A graphic representation of Columbus's welcome in America!

Off on another trek we felt we needed a Diet Coke to help the hangover! Passed a bar and guess what? Just as we entered they were playing the Aussie National Anthem and the rugby game against Wales was just starting. What a coincidence! Downed the Diet Coke and watched the first 15 mins but feeling a little shaky and the wobblies not starting with any flourish we left them to it. Gather though it was a great game with a climatic finish, sorry we missed it now - it might have made us feel better!

Rugby live in Madrid!!!

Cheryl had recommended a visit to a Deli, a short underground trip away and we were there. Amazing pastries, breads, chocolates and many many other delights.

Lovely smoked salmon rolls - a change

 from all the Jamon we've been sampling

And, to finish off the meal some unctuous Gazpacho - not quite like we make at home, a more refined mix with additions of diced onion, capsicum, croutons and tomato.

Delicious

Resting our weary bodies before dinner. Thinking of the Tapas place we went last night but wonder if we can risk it again!


Dinner done! A great Paella between the two of us and at the Mexican waiters suggestion a hangover cure from home. A beer with lemon juice and Tabasco - either the hangover was incurable or the recipe a dud!

Tonic or not?

Paella for two

On the way to dinner we found a quaint bookshop stacked with a large range of pre-loved books on a wide variety of subjects. We both bought books for the six hours ahead of us on the train from Segovia to San Sebastion. Segovia tomorrow though on our way north.  

Bookworm!

Adios Madrid.

PARKS, PICASSO AND PALS

 It was nice to get out today and have a pleasant break from Plazas and Monuments and stroll through the Botanic Gardens in the shade of giant trees amongst manicured gardens.

Nearby was the Prado and the Reina Sofia art gallery home to many of Picasso’s paintings including the Guernica* his controversial painting of the Spanish Civil War.

Not quite legal photo

Picasso

* Guernica is a painting by Pablo Picasso. It was created in response to the bombing of Guernica, Basque Country, by German and Italian warplanes at the behest of the Spanish Nationalist forces, on 26 April 1937, during the Spanish Civil War. The Spanish Republican government commissioned Picasso to create a large mural for the Spanish display at the Paris International Exposition at the 1937 World's Fair in Paris.

Guernica shows the tragedies of war and the suffering it inflicts upon individuals, particularly innocent civilians. This work has gained a monumental status, becoming a perpetual reminder of the tragedies of war, an anti-war symbol, and an embodiment of peace. On completion Guernica was displayed around the world in a brief tour, becoming famous and widely acclaimed. This tour helped bring the Spanish Civil War to the world's attention.

Dinner was shaping up as another gruesome twosome. We returned to the same tapas precinct that we went to the night before intending to try some of the delicacies we missed previously. Good plan, but as we cosied up to some other people we got chatting. One thing led to another and despite the fact that they were from Iceland (we think it was, but do they speak Spanish there?) and could hardly speak any English, we had an amazing few hours with them sharing their wine and food - they were extremely generous with both, wanting us to try more "typical" tapas. It was funny and really entertaining despite the language difficulties.

A quiet start

A not so quiet finish!

MADRID

Another travelling day. Not exciting but uneventful on the fast train, a surprise breakfast provided ‘en route’ to Madrid, the capital of Spain.

Looks fast, goes fast!

First class service

Olives galore

Its big in every way – spread out with wide tree lined boulevards leading to the old part of the city where we are staying.

A brief walk to get our bearings, a few landmarks to satisfy our lust for such things then off to dinner. We found a small, intimate, marketplace with numerous Tapas bars – some Padrons, Cod Bacalou, Whitebait, Foie gras etc. filled us up for the night.

Plaza de Espana

A well deserved (?) beer and wine before dinner

Mushies

More Padrons!

Another day exploring tomorrow.

AMAZING ANDALUSIAN

Well it was truly amazing, what a spectacle with flamenco dancing and prancing horses that performed incredible dressage feats, let the pictures speak for themselves.

A grateful admirer

CRUISING CORDOBA

Our brief encounter in Cordoba yesterday left us in great anticipation for today. We are lucky enough to be staying in the old city, right up against the Mezquita walls. At one time Cordoba was the largest city 'in the world'. It's hard to imagine, but that's what they say. A maze of narrow streets and tidy, clean and colourful floral decorations.

Beats shanks pony!

Next a surprise in the gardens of the The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos (Spanish for "Alcázar of the Christian Monarchs" or Fortress of the Kings). The fortress itself was impressive being habitated by various Christian rulers since the early 13th century.

Alcazar means Palace in Arabic

Extensive and extravagant, the gardens were 

a little Venice of ingenious waterways and fountains.

Cordoba had a strong Jewish community that was eliminated with the Muslims when the Crusades arrived. The Synagogue is one of only three remaining in Spain, the other two being in Toledo.

Remains of the Synagogue

A treat in store tonight to watch the "Espectaculo Ecuestre" at the Royal stables. We called in today and went through the old stables and were able to see the Andalusian horses at close hand. The Spanish Riding School in Vienna uses the Andalusian horses, so we are extremely excited to see them here, where they were bred.

The old Royal stables

Tomorrow we join the fast train again and head for Madrid for a few days, then Segovia on our way north/west to San Sebastian and France.

CORDOBA

There are fast and slow ways to get around and today we took the fast train to Cordoba. We were told the Spanish trains were great - and so they are. Clean and  wonderful facilities at the stations we were whisked at 300k's to our destination.  Not a lot to see on the way, due in part to the blurrrring as we went speeding past but to a landscape a little devoid of anything but olive trees.

We hit 300 a few times, but not much over!

Cordoba is famous for a few things, bullfights that no longer happen, Flamenco dancing, dancing Andalusian horses (booked for tomorrow) and the 'Mezquita-Catedral', which we visited today. It was originally a mosque but was converted to a Cathedral in the 13th century. It was amazing to see the two styles together.

Moorish pillars and arches.

There are also anumber of Roman remains including the bridge and gate into the old town

Roman bridge

More tomorrow when we get a full day here.